Archive for the ‘projects’ Category

downstairs check-in

Wednesday, January 18th, 2012

So what’s up down? Well, David and Joe have been busy since their last round of ceiling-up-putting with final prep for closing up the walls and ceiling.  Tell us all about it, David…

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The hallway got its energy-efficient, eco-conscious makeover. Now fully denimated and insulated…

insulation down the hallway

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That ridiculously frigid storage area under the stairs got the same treatment…

insulation under the stairs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And the bathroom will now be much warmer and cozier, too…

insulation in the bathroom ceiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Including the shower…

insulation over the shower

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The concrete foundation wall was insulated earlier with 3″ EPS — the floor was also insulated, so it will definitely be more snug in here even after we tile. Gyp board (sheetrock) is the next step.]

Our electrician got all the new wiring roughed in downstairs — we passed inspection, which is why Joe and I are able to button things up. Our old electrical panel was code-compliant in 1971 but had since become outdated with a grounding system no longer acceptable. So we now have a nice shiny new 100-amp box.

All electrical boxes and ceiling lights are getting special soundproofing. Heavy putty pads are wrapped around them which block air (and noise) from getting through all the little holes and openings. The pads also add mass to the boxes so they won’t vibrate and transmit sound…

ceiling light can with insulating pad

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This thing that looks like a boring old light is actually going to become a smoke and CO2 detector…

smoke/co detector

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

To complete the soundproofing, the gap between the detector’s electrical box and ceiling gyp board will be filled with non-hardening acoustical caulk. The box itself will be wired to another one by the upstairs bedrooms and to a heat sensor in the garage. If one unit is triggered all three will sound the alarm, giving us the best chance to get out and get the fire department here.

All pipe and wire penetrations are getting sealed against air and noise passage as well as against fire. Special fire-rated caulk first, then expanding foam where appropriate…

fire-rated caulk seals up the penetrations

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last minute additions to the A/V network: more smurf tube. One run from the desk area to the stereo cabinet to get digital music from the computer to the DAC, and a video cable to allow use of the TV as a monitor. Mmmmmm,  50” internets…

smurf tube for running cable and wires

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The other run goes from behind the TV to the future home of the upstairs stereo to allow for AM/FM and TV signal wires…

smurf tube thru the ceiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Someday soon we’re going to put antennas on the roof. That way we’ll be able to pull in distant radio stations and if the cable ever goes out we’ll still be able to get local TV channels.

 

yeah, i said butt splice

Monday, January 9th, 2012

David will now pick up where I left off last week.

—————————————————————————————-

So Joe and I got a bunch of gyp board (aka sheetrock or drywall) hung on the downstairs ceiling. As Brook pointed out, it’s a ⅝”-thick product called QuietRock. I chose it specifically for its soundproofing, noise-reducing qualities as the downstairs will eventually be our entertainment area. We don’t want to hear action movie blasts and techno beats through the floor upstairs.

Quietrock is made up of (from front to back): paper, ⅜” gypsum, a layer of a non-hardening viscoelastic glue, ¼” gypsum and paper. It’s still a Type-X fire-rated product but has much better sound dampening characteristics than standard ⅝” gyp board. It also differs from standard sheetrock in having a paper-wrapped long edge which is not removed upon installation….

paper edge on short side

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

No matter what kind of gyp board you use, there’s a trick to getting a really flat wall or ceiling with it. The long edges come from the factory with a taper that allows for the thickness of the joint compound and tape you’re going to add, so that the separate pieces of gyp board become one monolithic, smooth mass. But the short edges have no taper and if left to their own device will make a visible hump when taped. You see this all the time. Here’s a typical wall in our house…

bad tape job

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The solution, if you plan ahead, is to buy one of several products that screw to the back of the adjoining pieces to pull their edges into a taper. Failing that foresight (ahem, I did it again), you can make your own butt splice —  that’s what Joe and I did. Butt splice: splice the gyp boards together with another board behind the gap where they butt up against each other.

To make the butt splice, first I picked up  1/16″ mat board at my local art shop. Then I cut it into 1″ strips and stapled it to plywood planks (same thickness as the drywall, sized 9-1/4″ wide x an inch shorter than the length of the joint) along both long edges…

mat board stapled to plywood

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As each sheet of QuietRock went up, we screwed the finished splices to the backside like so…

ceiling detail shot

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

ceiling detail shot 2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

As the two pieces of gyp board are screwed to the plywood along their edges, they flex upwards slightly along the screw line…

where boards butt pulls up to a taper

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That creates a tapered edge which will take tape and compound just like a factory taper. Voila! Super smooth ceiling or wall! Tape and compound still to come…

QuietRock all spliced up

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But first, we have to finish the rest of the ceiling and walls.

[FYI, the process we used above is Fine Homebuilding’s butt splice tip in action. Thanks, FH!]

 

and… ?

Thursday, January 5th, 2012

So how’s it going with the sheetrock installation today? David can give you the pro’s point of view in another post. I just want to show you how quickly the construction zone is starting to look pulled together.

This was the scene this morning…

this morning

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the first sheet of Quietrock went up…

quietrock on ceiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Followed by sharp objects cutting into sheet goods…

cutting the second sheet

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And another sheet went up…

another sheet goes up

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then another…

and then another

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And so on, with tools and such…

tools and such

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And then lo and behold, it suddenly looks like a ceiling!

yup looks like a ceiling

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was more to it than that, of course. The Magic Man can fill you in on the construction details. The Layman-type Girl (that’s me), is pleased. Thanks, Joe and David!

back to the front

Thursday, December 29th, 2011

Well, we did it. Managed to squeeze one final outside project into 2011: the front walkway. I didn’t feel strongly about having one but David did, so we enlisted Jim Egan at Land Design Associates to create something that would tie to the rest of the hardscaping he’s done for us.

Here’s what Jim came up with…

fronthill_initialdrawing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basically three terraced levels with steps in between. In his drawing, the top level (far left) shows the original concrete walk that fronts our concrete entryway steps and walls being replaced with granite. That’s this area…

fronthillwalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was also talk of facing the concrete steps and walls with granite but that just doesn’t make sense. I think the concrete is integral to the design of the house. And there’s nothing wrong with any of it other than that stupid crack (under the black mat in the photo) at the bottom of the steps. So we’re keeping it as is and adding below it down to the street level. We realize that a granite walkway will never match the old concrete but think we can make it work.

So, our slight revision to Jim’s initial idea looks something like this (click to biggify)…

fronthill2 | rough drawing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The crew came and made short work of it. First they dug out the hillside and leveled out bases for the two terraced parts of the walkway…

fronthill1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That involved moving a lot of soil…

fronthill3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I added a good amount of that soil to other parts of the slope after they left, shovel by shovel, and then sculpted it as I saw fit. But I digress. The crushed base went down and the steps were heaved into place…

fronthill4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then the first granite terrace went in…

fronthill5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Followed by the second terrace…

fronthill6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And Bob’s yer uncle!

We’re left with a hillside of disturbed soil and it’s too late in the season for plants to take root. So once again, I staked biodegradable Curlex down to hold the dirt in place…

fronthill7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

fronthill8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I rolled erosion control blanket and pounded stakes until almost midnite in a mad rush to beat the ground freezing the next day. But it’s done now and I won’t touch it again until April. Looks much better, no? Remind yourself what it used to look like.

And the crack? I’ll show you another time.

 

every time a window closes

Monday, December 26th, 2011

… a door opens. That’s what they say, right? So a few weeks back, it may have looked like all the windows were in and we were set for the winter. But no. These two hopper windows have been waiting in a corner…

window1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christmas week, David and Joe finally unwrapped them (Thank you, Santa)…

windows

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… and fitted them in over the upstairs sliders where they belong.

windows2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now the living area is much, much warmer. Bonus: we no longer hear the constant flap flap flapping of the blue tarp. I can’t wait until said tarp is gone and a trip to the livingroom no longer feels like a visit to the bottom of the deep blue sea.

While the boys were at it, they also tackled installing the new and incredibly heavy aluminum door downstairs. But first they had to get it there…

door1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

door2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s where David takes over:

First we had to remove the old door and its associated framing (which was pretty funky, it must have been installed at 4:20 on a Friday). Once we had that corner of the house open we realized the beam was sitting on just two 2x4s, one of which was split. They missed an opportunity to land the beam on that foundation wall on the left side of the opening here…

door4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The concrete under the door was packed in under the old door in a haphazard way, so we replaced that too — remembering to use a bonding agent between old and new concrete so they’d stick together…

door5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We put super tape between the new door framing and the foundation walls, and used treated lumber for good measure…

door6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The old concrete work is pretty funky, so it took some serious shimming to get the door plumb and square. Then I filled the remaining spaces with low-expanding foam. That will look much cleaner when the walls get finished…

door7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The door hardware is German and super smooth…

door8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The locking system will take some getting used to. The lever throws the bolt and also four pins that lock the door along its whole length. …

door9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Supposed to be storm proof or something — with the right glass, which we didn’t opt for since we don’t live in Florida.

Looks hot, doesn’t it? Our front door will be replaced, too. In the fullness of time, of course.

 

hotted up, the sequel

Monday, December 5th, 2011

If you’ve been following along, the new heat was installed a week or so ago. Then came time to get it running. Jeff from RAM Mechanical came back to commission the HVAC system. First he checked that the 100 psi of nitrogen he put in the lines hadn’t leaked out…

hvac1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next he double-checked all the wiring. Once he was sure everything was good to go, he turned it on. There was a problem with the amount of refrigerant in the compressor — it was charged assuming 150′ of pipe but we only had 52′, so the pressure got too high and everything shut down. A couple of phone calls later we had the right amount of pressure and things were heating up nicely.

Until we start on the upstairs construction and tear out the old electric baseboard, these two thermostats will be neighbors. 1971 meet 2011…

hvac2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The new thermostat is also a remote control… or is it a remote control that’s also a thermostat? It has all the features you might want except it’s not programmable to automatically reduce energy use during different times of the day…

hvac3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It does have a night-time setback mode which gradually reduces energy use (raising the temp in cooling season, lowering the temp in heating season), but it’s manual mode. We’ll see if there are any other thermostat options available for this system.

In any event, the new Sanyo units produce plenty of heat, the fans are very quiet even on high, and we can’t hear the compressor run. So far so good, we’ll see what the electric bill has to say next month.

flash, flash i love you!

Sunday, December 4th, 2011

I mentioned the other day that our custom flashing deserved its own post. And so be it.

Joe and I examined the details we received from the architect and came up with three profiles to flash all the door and window openings. Joe is an expert at keeping water out of houses and he suggested using metal .040″ thick for its longevity. We chose mill-finish aluminum so it would blend in with our clear anodized aluminum window and door frames. [It’s also available in white, bronze (really just brown) and green — and it’s paintable — we won’t be painting ours.]

I left the ordering of the flashing a bit late and ended up having to pick up 4′ x 10′ sheets of aluminum at Beacon Roofing. Now .040″ doesn’t sound that thick (it’s just over 1/32″), but it’s stiff enough that Beacon couldn’t roll all three aluminum sheets together! I delivered the sheets to James at Renaissance Cornice. We went over the design (drawings below) and he bent them up on his CNC metal brake the night before we needed them. The night before! Man. Thanks, James!

The window flashing turned out pretty great…

window flashing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s the concept showing how it will extend over the siding which isn’t back on the house yet…

Window sill flashing.

 

The flashing for the sides and top of the openings will align with the sill flashing and make a frame around the doors and windows…

Sides and top flashing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Because the downstairs slider opens onto a patio, we took extra care to install it in an even more waterproof manner. Joe designed a clever interlocking flashing system…

Slider 2-piece flashing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

One piece goes up the face of the house and then under the bottom of the slider where it will get bent up to keep out any water that makes it in there…

window2_11

 

The other piece goes down the face of the house and then tucks under, shedding water onto a large piece of lead flashing between the wood framing and the concrete slab. Why lead? It lasts forever. The concern is with the ground so close, snow and ice could build up and then melt and sneak inside. We’ll use this same profile for the rest of the exterior doors on the house.

 

 

window time: day 2

Friday, December 2nd, 2011

This is where we left off with windows. Now here’s where we pick up… The problem with just-in-time construction is it doesn’t allow for falling behind.

Tuesday we tried to stay ahead of the window and door installers by at least one opening. Here’s Joe applying house-wrap over the new foam+plywood and frames on the upstairs portion of the back wall…

window2_3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe installed the custom flashing, bending it up at the inside corners and then sealing it down with super-duper tape…

window2_4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tape? For obvious reasons, you don’t want to put any fasteners through flashing — water has a way of getting into places you thought it couldn’t. The trick to keeping it out is to seal everything from the bottom up in order to shed the water back out. Bad flashing details can trap water and then it’s perfectly happy to cause  mold, mildew and rot — not something we want.

Next up: the two big fixed window frames. Waiting to go in, no glass in them yet…

window2_7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The aluminum window frames are thermally broken (they have a non-metallic connector between the inside and outside faces to limit heat transfer) but are ordinarily installed hollow. Joe and I decided leaving them hollow was a missed opportunity to be more energy-efficient, so I ripped 3/4″ EPS on the table saw to fit and we jammed it in there…

window2_8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the window frames were installed level and square (which was easy because we made the extension frames level and square), butyl rubber got applied to the inside face of the frame…

window2_14

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Close-up of the frame almost ready for the glass…

window2_15

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I was an honorary glass man for the day, helping hoist the new panels into place with a fancy suction cup handle. Those suckers were HEHVEE….

window2_1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe was the balance man…

window2_2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once the glass was in against the butyl rubber, aluminum stops were snapped in on the outside and a rubber gasket was driven in-between the stops and the glass. No fasteners show so there’s a nice clean look.

That slot in the aluminum stop is a weep hole to let water out in case the wind drives it in there…

Glass panel installed.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Each glass panel has a low-e coating on the inner piece of glass (“lite” in technical jargon). It acts as sort of a one-way system for radiant heat — heat from the sun can come in but can’t get back out…

window2_6

 

The new sliders look great, perform great and slide like butter on a hot pan…

window2_9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A bump stop goes in at the top of the slider to keep fingers from being crushed…

window2_5

 

Digging the nice, clean look of the door hardware…

window2_10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All in all, looking great from the outside…

window2_12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But wait — not done yet! The gaps between the window and door frames and the house need to be filled. Caulk can bridge small gaps just fine but bigger gaps require that foam backer rod stuffed in. This stops the caulk from falling in to the gap…

Backer rod saves caulk!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Joe picked up a tube of this at Home Depot…

voccompliantmyass

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DO NOT use this. It stank to high heaven and smelled up the whole house even though it clearly says “V.O.C. compliant.” Not good. I’ll find something braincell-friendlier for the rest of the project.

So here’s the finished caulking job. The caulk is clear so it’s hard to tell what’s happening but I promise it’s in there. You can clearly see the backer rod!

Clear caulk is freaky.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Backer rod didn’t fill the really big gaps at the tops of the two big windows so I put blue tape across them, pushed in a bit to leave room for caulk…

Blue tape has SO many uses.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Then I filled all the gaps with expanding foam from the inside. The smaller gaps now have caulk or backer rod and caulk to stop the foam. The big gaps have the blue tape for the foam to expand up against. Soon I’ll strip the tape and caulk them from the outside, easy peasy.

What did we do before expanding foam?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And that, my friends, was a long day.

window time: day 1

Wednesday, November 30th, 2011

Back in the spring we started looking at manufacturers of aluminum windows and ultimately chose Arcadia. About three months ago, we put in our order for the first round of windows. As of yesterday morning, replacement of the windows and sliders on just the deck-end of the house finally kicked off.

Did I say “just”? It took four people from Rhode Island Glass to unload it all…

windows1

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

While the shiny new goods were unloaded, Joe and David got the window wall ready to go by removing the moldings holding in the old wood frames…

windows2

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goodbye, moldings. I will not miss you. You make no sense in an MCM house that wants a cleaner, simpler look…

windows3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The crew from Rhode Island Glass carefully removed the old glass. Mind you, they’re standing on scaffolding one flight off the ground and the glass weighs a gazillion pounds…

window4

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like that’s not hard enough, the two panes started to separate from each other. Nice. Somehow they lowered it to the ground and carted the whole business up-slope without injuring themselves. Goodbye, cloudy old glass…

window5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

David and Joe worked upstairs, installing the wood frames to extend the openings out flush with the face of the 3″ foam+plywood, while the crew worked downstairs…

window6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Newly fitted window box complete. The giant windows on both sides of the central slider were resized about 12″ narrower in width…

window7

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… to accommodate future built-ins planned to run along the walls of the upstairs livingroom. The cabinetry needs a solid wall to die into…

window8

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Over the foam+plywood went a layer of house-wrap to keep out the elements. Joe carefully detailed the openings prior to windows…

window9

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The house-wrap was then topped off by custom-made aluminum flashing…

window10

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[The flashing deserves its own post — it’s pretty special.]

The downstairs slider went in and then the window. Full pics tomorrow…

window11

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before the day came to a close, Joe and David had all four of the upper window and door extensions fully adhered, leveled and screwed into place…

window11.5

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

But there just wasn’t enough time to get windows and sliders in upstairs. Although David wrapped the openings in anticipation of last night’s storminess, at 1:30 the gusts, how you say, compromised the plastic…

window12

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

… and the storm found its way in. Nothing like fixing things in the middle of the night to make you tired for round two the next day…

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You can hardly wait to find out how it all ends, right?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

hotted up

Monday, November 28th, 2011

Let’s talk briefly about how we’re going to heat our house. Currently, we have electric baseboard heat. It’s actually fairly efficient — it converts about 95% of the electricity into heat. But we’re investing in something even more efficient — and, key to a small house like ours, it allows us to use all the wall space that’s currently taken up with heaters.

So what is this wonder of which I speak? Officially known as an air-source heat pump, you may have heard it called a “mini-split.” Chances are you’ve seen one as the A/C-only units are popular in restaurants. This is the Sanyo unit we’ll be using (comes with a handy-dandy remote)…

KMHS0772-48857444 via sanyo.com

 

 

 

 

 

If you want a really good explanation of why it’s more energy efficient, you should read this. So our new heat pump was installed a few days ago…

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With some aesthetic changes and the elimination of the dark purple paint, eventually that mildly unattractive white rectangle above the window will disappear from view. We hope.

There are two refrigerant lines, the electric cable and a small PVC drain line for any condensation that forms in the summer or in winter when the unit is in defrost mode. The connections run down inside the double wall…

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The hoses exit outside where they travel inside a piece of PVC over to the compressor…

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I’ll clean up that expanding foam and seal a piece of metal flashing over the hole to maintain our water and air infiltration integrity, and to keep out 4- and 6-legged vermin.

An outside unit (the compressor) takes heat out of the air and pumps it into refrigerant which is circulated through pipes to the indoor unit (in summer the process is reversed)…

 

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The compressor is relatively small considering it provides 32,000 BTUs of heat — and 34,000 BTUs of cooling. It can support up to four connections. We’ll be using just two: a 9,000 BTU unit downstairs and a 24,000 BTU unit in the upstairs living area. Each is connected to the compressor with two copper refrigerant lines wrapped in black foam insulation, and a 3-wire cable carrying electricity to the fans in the inside unit. The wire also carries signals from the inside units back to the compressor telling it whether to send heat or cooling, and how much to send. The compressor has a variable-speed DC motor which can run faster or slower as needed to suit demand. This makes it much more efficient than a simple on/off compressor.

Now that our electrician has made all the wiring connections, RAM Mechanical (our HVAC installer extraordinaire) will return to double-check the refrigerant connections for leaks. Before they left, they filled the hoses with nitrogen under pressure. If the pressure has dropped over the last week they’ll know something is amiss. Hopefully this is just a precaution and later this week we’ll have heat! In a month or two we’ll compare our past electric bills to the current ones and know just what we’re saving with the new system.