Posts Tagged ‘garden’

quick, get the flamethrower!

Monday, March 15th, 2010

I’m only kidding a little. We’re being invaded. Fuh reals. I recently wrote about my intent to keep invasive plants out of my garden. Perhaps I should clarify — when I say “invasive,”  I don’t mean plants that are a little rambunctious. I’m talking about something much more menacing.

Here’s The Nature Conservancy’s definition:

On their home turf, plant and animal populations are kept in check by natural controls, like predators and food supply. However, when a species is introduced — accidentally or intentionally — into a new landscape that is not used to its presence, the consequences can be devastating. Most of these “non-native” species do not misbehave. But some non-native species spread unchecked by the lack of natural competitors and predators.  They push out native species and cause ecological chaos. These are known as “invasive” species.

Here’s an excellent example I know you’re familiar with: Kudzu.

kudzu monsters

from Kudzu Covered Houses | jjanthony.com

Originally from Japan, it was brought to America in 1876 as part of an international exposition. The plant was pretty, easy to grow and became increasingly popular with gardeners.

During the Great Depression of the 1930s, the Soil Conservation Service promoted kudzu for erosion control. Hundreds of young men were given work planting kudzu through the Civilian Conservation Corps.

The planting of well over a million acres of the stuff was fully subsidized by the U.S. government. The South’s balmy climate is perfect for Kudzu, so of course it thrived. And then it kicked ass. Literally. It smothers native trees and plants to death. Researchers have tried torching it, spraying it with deadly (to everyone) chemicals, and sic-ing kudzu-eating bugs and sheep on it. Now there’s talk of it being used for biofuel — I hope that catches on. Want to see awesome photos of houses being devoured by it?

purple loosestrife | nps.gov

purple loosestrife | nps.gov

If you live in New England, you’ve no doubt seen Purple Loosestrife choking our wetlands, marshes and meadows. Pretty in bloom, yes. But it’s a dense, aggressive grower that’s difficult to eradicate. It was brought here by settlers from Europe in the 1800s and is now displacing native grasses and other plants our local wildlife relies on for food and habitat. Purple Loosestrife has spread to every province of Canada and every contiguous state except Florida. The Department of Agriculture sees it as a threat and has been bringing in European beetles as an experiment in control. Dunno if it’s working.

Like Kudzu and Purple Loosestrife,  there are plenty of other plants listed as “noxious weeds”  by the fed and state governments. “Noxious” indicates an invasive plant considered to be such a threat that it requires an organized effort to eradicate it and is in some cases illegal to plant, propagate or sell. That said, I bought Purple Loosestrife a decade ago at a very reputable nursery and only found out afterwards it was wanted by the long arm of the law. Lesson learned: be aware so that you don’t contribute to the problem.

Pretty sure you don’t have invasive plants lurking in your garden? You might want to check. Here are just a few that look pretty innocent but are far from it where I live. These are plants I pass every day on my run through the city…

japanese barberry | photobucket.com

japanese barberry | photobucket.com

oriental bittersweet | forestry.ky.gov

oriental bittersweet | forestry.ky.gov

“burning bush” euonymus | ubcbotanicalgarden.org

“burning bush” euonymus | ubcbotanicalgarden.org

“vinca” common periwinkle | invasive.org

“vinca” common periwinkle | invasive.org

japanese honeysuckle | invasive.org

japanese honeysuckle | invasive.org

I’ll stop there. There are links below for a much longer list no matter where you live, if you’re interested. Maybe you’ll luck out and find you’re not harboring an invasive or two in your garden — unlike me.

So what can we do about it, really?

When I read things like this from the University of Rhode Island Master Gardeners site…

The two greatest threats to biological diversity around the world are habitat loss/destruction and the presence of invasive species. Nearly half of the plants and animals on the U.S. Endangered Species List are at risk because of invasive species.

and things like this from a 2010 State of the Birds report…

… nearly a third of the nation’s 800 bird species are endangered, threatened or in significant decline… [due to pesticides, invasive species and general loss of habitat]

… it only reinforces my feeling that I don’t need to add to the problem. Bees are suffering. Butterflies are suffering. Hybridizing has been hard on both, as well as the same things killing off our birds.

By eliminating invasive species from my own yard, I’m doing something. Not much, I know, but every little bit. And many sources say if you want to help pollinators make the best of an increasingly bad situation, provide at least some native perennials, shrubs and trees for food and habitat — “native” means original to North America as opposed to a plant brought here from another continent.

I confess now that not all of my plants will be native — my ginkgos and Japanese maples are obviously Asian, for instance. I do have a large number of natives, though, and will continue to add them as the garden goes in. When I post garden plans, I’ll try to identify what is and isn’t native.

In the meantime, look out, invasives. If I see you, I’m reaching for the blowtorch. Yeah, I’m talkin’ bout you, vinca.

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Bookmarks for this post

Invasive.org Excellent resource for info on invasives, including news updates… their Invasive Plant Atlas of the U.S. is broken out by plant types

PlantsUSDA.gov Lists by state of invasives considered to be noxious weeds

InvasivePlants.net Group from Cornell University that researches how non-indigenous plants affect native ecosystems and the species living in them

Invasive Plant Atlas of New England Species considered to be invasive at some level, also a list of illegal noxious weeds

Wildlife Habitat Council Lots of great resources for creating pollinator (bee and butterfly) habitats in your backyard

National Wildlife Federation How to help improve your local ecosystem by creating habitat in your yard for all kinds of wildlife — sustainability starts at home!

North American Native Plant Society An excellent plant database for restoring and conserving native plants

Your native plant society (nationwide links) is an excellent source for native plants to supplement your garden. Being in Providence, I like Garden in the Woods — the garden and shop of the New England Wildflower Society outside Boston and the RI Wild Plant Society annual sale, and there are scads of nurseries that either specialize in or offer native plants.

PlantNative.org Lists of native plants by region as well as nurseries

I’m sure there are other good books on natives, but I can highly recommend these because I own them: Native Alternatives to Invasive Plants published by the Brooklyn Botanic Garden and Native Trees, Shrubs and Vines published by the New England Wild Flower Society

man-sized rainwater collection

Tuesday, March 9th, 2010

We don’t do things a little around here. No, we go big and hairy. Even when it comes to rainwater collection. You don’t think we forgot about that when we were busy putting in retaining walls and planning the yard, do you? I’ll let my huz David tell you all about it…

flat roof

Look at that flat roof. Not only is it a great modern architecture feature, it’s great for collecting rainwater. With all the water running to one edge, the gutter to roof ratio is very low and the downspouts are easy to collect into one outlet. We knew we wanted to take advantage of our rainwater — so let’s look at the decisions we had to make to do it.

Crunching the numbers

Research on the web gave us lots of formulas and tables and charts on water collection — I’ve included links to some of those at the end of this post. Our roof is about 1,200 square feet which will generate about 720 gallons per inch of rainfall. Average annual rainfall in Rhode Island is about 33″, so we could theoretically harvest almost 27,000 gallons of water per year. That’s a lot of water! In actual practice, we won’t ever get even close to that number.

About 10% of the rainfall is lost to wetting the roof and evaporation. The filter rejects another 5%. But the main limiting factor is tank size. A heavy rain of say 3″ would produce about 2,160 gallons of water — less 15%, that leaves about 1,800 gallons we could possibly gather. The tank is 1,700 gallons and will seldom be empty enough to take a full rainfall.

What size tank?

There’s never been a garden here before, which means no historical data to refer to in order to figure out outside water usage. A rain barrel just isn’t going to do it for us — we need a tank and had to guess at how big. I suppose we could have opted for smaller than what we ended up with. But given size of the property and the opportunity to collect the maximum amount of water for just slightly more cost, why wouldn’t we go with a hella big tank?

We settled on the 1,700 gallon polypropylene, underground tank from Norwesco. Won’t rust or corrode. It’s cleared for environmentally safe, potable water, even. And by sinking the tank, that frees up more valuable outdoor space. Here are the 1,700 gal cistern specs.

Will we save money?

Yes and, um, not so much. There are multiple costs at play here. The average household served by Providence Water Board uses 75,000 gallons per year. Right now we only use about 35,000 gallons a year, less than half the average in this region — but again, none of that includes watering more than the few tomato plants we had. We pay $.0032 per gallon for water and $.0035 per gallon for sewer. That means we’ll save $.0067 for every gallon of city water we replace with rain water. Great! But we’ll have to save 463,000 gallons to break even on just the tank, filter equipment and the cost of getting it transported here. (Luckily, DIY means we’re saving on plumbing labor.) We might expect a 10 to 20-year payback, typical for green projects without state or federal incentives.

We’re trying to be smart in our garden planning. We’re planning for areas of pea gravel with a super-minimal, low-water lawn zone, a drought-tolerant plant zone, a zero-water plant zone, and so on, but obviously we can expect a decent amount of water use as we get our garden established. No doubt, all that rainwater we gather will go to good use.

The installation

Here are the down-and-dirty instructions. And here’s how an installation plays out in reality, starting with our tank arriving the week of Christmas. I knew it was huge but I hadn’t really considered that it was bigger than a Toyota…

tank delivery

We waited for our concrete guys to dig the hole for us since the backhoe was already digging our retaining walls. We had to leave it in the street, completely paranoid some drunk college kid would mow it down in daddy’s car.

tank waiting by ramp... waiting... waiting

But a week or two later, the tank was fine and the hole was finally dug…

digging the hole

Then there was the matter of getting a 400-lb. tank up a hill without it sliding back into the street.

The tank is recommended to be set on sand to provide drainage and lower the chances of a puncture. The distributor told me crushed stone would work fine, so we went with that. Once the bedding gravel was added to the hole and the tank set, my friend Joe and I did the plumbing prep work. Plumbing the tank will be a lot easier when the ground isn’t frozen like it is now, so we installed the 4″ inlet and 4″ outlet then connected pipe to get us to where the filter will be buried.

plumbing the tank

The rest of the plumbing will be buried in the spring. Next, we backfilled the hole with gravel…

filling hole with gravel

On sites where the water table is high or where there might be flooding, underground tanks have to be anchored down so they don’t pop up out of the ground when they try to float on the groundwater. They also require good drainage around and beneath so that a good New England frost heave won’t crush or shift them. Luckily, our hilltop location means excellent drainage and not having to worry about such things.

tank with more gravel

When we’re done plumbing the tank in the spring, there will also be a vent shaped like an upside-down J. A pipe will carry water from the in-tank, 12-volt pump (powered by batteries that will be charged by a small solar panel on the roof of the house, which I’ll also rig to power all of our exterior lighting) to a spigot next to the existing one that delivers city water. At least that’s the plan.

tank burying

The gravel and tank then got topped off by soil to the same grade as the rest of the yard.

tank buried

We’re waiting out the winter for the soil to settle — which it will inevitably do given the gravel. Then we’ll raise the level again with some nice loam. If it weren’t for the two manholes (we hopefully only need one), you’d never know the tank was there! Once the plantings are in, I think the manhole will hardly be noticeable.

The gadget geeks in the house will appreciate this: the filter we chose is German… because as we all know, German things are beautifully engineered.

tank filter

The Low Capacity Vortex by Wisy uses centrifugal force to push water through a fine stainless steel basket while detritus falls down the center along with about 5% of the water that goes in. That 5% passes through a second coarser filter, plus any overflow from the tank feeds into a perforated pipe where it can re-enter the water table instead of pouring into the gutter and down a storm drain. That’s better for the local soil and better for the ocean, since street and storm drain run-off can carry all kinds of nastiness. No need for us to contribute to that.

The ground should be warm enough in the weeks ahead to finish up the plumbing. Did I mention french drain? Sexy. You might want to stick around for that post.

man down!

Bookmarks for this post

csgnetwork.com has a online rainwater calculator (requires javascript)

watercache.com has a really basic calculator (no javascript)

green-trust.org has all the formulas if you’re feeling brave enough to do your own calculations

rain-barrel.net has an interesting explanation of the mathematical principles behind the rainwater calculator

off-grid.net posted an interesting look at somebody else’s underground tank system and associated costs

as for equipment…

rainwatermanagement.com has some nice rainwater collection setups for residential applications

tjb has an innovative rainwater collection setup we could never afford — but wow, impressive

and if you’re really, really into it…

harvesth20.com posts everything that’s happening in rainwater collection on a daily basis — this is where you’ll learn that rainwater harvesting is a surprisingly controversial subject and even illegal in states like Colorado! links to great resources and new products.

arcsa.org is the American Rainwater Cachement Systems Association — lots of links to lots of resources.

Rainwater collection is obviously a subject that will continue to increase in importance. I think we can expect to see many more companies jumping into the business and continued innovation in products — way beyond the standard rain barrel.

spray chalk to die for

Thursday, March 4th, 2010

I’ve been trying to find a simple, reasonably green way to “draw” our hardscaping ideas onto the ground. That would let me play with different configurations — see how the pool works over here vs. over there. I think I figured out how to do that. I hope you’ll come to my funeral.

Rust-oleum Landscaper’s Chalk

Contractors in landscaping and construction use spray paint to mark out planting beds, walls, stairs, etc. But I really, really wanted to avoid toxic spray paint in our yard. Then I found this: Landscape Chalk! Chalk — that sounds pretty benign, right? And it says “environmentally friendly” right on the can…

Spray Chalk close-up

Bear in mind, this is a Rust-Oleum product. If you take a look at the ingredients you’ll find it’s made with toluene, acetone and xylene. Yum! Proven carcinogens. Known to cause birth defects. Oh, and also potentially fatal.

Spray Chalk warnings

On the bright side, Rust-Oleum claims their spray chalk won’t hurt turf. Perhaps this is what makes it “environmentally friendly.” If only I had some turf.

Best news: I now own four cans. So don’t come over without a haz-mat suit and a respirator.

the erosion zone: plant choices

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Did you catch Erosion Zone, part one? This is part two, Revenge of the Erosion Zone, in which the battle against a tyrannical slope continues. Now that you’ve seen the problems that need solving, here are the plants that are up to the job.


1. Arctostaphylos uva ursi ‘Massachusetts’… also known as Bearberry or Kinnickinnick (Algonquin Indian name)

arcostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry) | rook.org
arcostaphylos uva-ursi (bearberry) | rook.org

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? excellent slope erosion control, loves crappy soil, recommended under oaks, native to the East Coast, it’s a spreader, white/pink flowers in spring and red berries in fall for birds, evergreen so it has year-round color, disease- and bug-resistant, long-lived, should do fine in morning sun/afternoon shade, rare and protected in some states

READ MORE ABOUT IT: here and here

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2. Comptonia peregrina … also known as Sweetfern

comptonia peregrina (sweetfern) | shot at Garden in the Woods
comptonia peregrina (sweetfern) | shot at Garden in the Woods

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? native to the East Coast, great for stabilizing slopes, thrives in dry spots on woodland edges, food for moths and butterflies, gorgeous blue-green foliage will look great peeking out above brighter greens, excellent spreader, it’s actually shrub that looks like a fern, should do great in morning sun/afternoon shade

READ MORE ABOUT IT: here and here

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3. Cornus canadensis… also known as Bunchberry or Creeping Dogwood

cornus candensis (creeping dogwood or bunchberry | paghat.com
cornus candensis (creeping dogwood or bunchberry | paghat.com

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? nice bright green with white flowers just like a dogwood but only 8″ tall, as a northern native shade-loving woodland groundcover it prefers morning sun and afternoon shade (hey, I have that!), good spreader, likes medium moisture which may be helped once other plants are established, reputed to be dependable so I’m willing to see how it does on-site

READ MORE ABOUT IT: here

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4. Ribes sanguineum ‘White Icicle’… also known as white flowering Wild Currant

ribes sanguineum hannaman’s (white flowering currant) | forestfarm.com
ribes sanguineum hannaman’s (white flowering currant) | forestfarm.com

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? native to the dry open woods and ravines of the Northwest coast, absolutely gorgeous pendulous white flowers, fruits, food for hummingbirds, butterflies and birds, good in zones 4-9 (I’m 5-6ish), drought-tolerant, recommended under oaks, should do great with morning sun/afternoon shade

READ ABOUT RELATED VARIETIES: here, here and here

WHY NOT A NATIVE CURRANT CLOSER TO HOME? our regional variety, known as American black currant or wild black currant (Ribes americanum), has been banned since the early 1900s in an effort to prevent White Pine Blister Rust. Sounds painful. It’s a fungus that was bad for the logging industry at the time. Black currant is officially deemed “a public nuisance” in RI and MA. Heavy. The ban has been lifted in most states. btw, red-flowering currant and pink-flowering currant are two great alternatives to the white — we went with white to unite the color scheme on this slope.

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5. Rubus pentalobus ‘Emerald Carpet’… also known as Ornamental Raspberry

rubus calycinoides (ornamental or creeping raspberry) | northcreeknurseries.com
rubus calycinoides (ornamental or creeping raspberry) | northcreeknurseries.com

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? loves climbing steep hillsides, used for erosion control (mostly on the West Coast), very drought-tolerant, from the thickets of Taiwan and has a slight Asian look about it that will tie nicely to the garden above, white flowers in spring, golden fruits for birds later in the season, bright green will really pop in the shade, leaves turn purple in fall and only fall off in extreme cold, insect- and disease-resistant, says hardy in zones 6-9 but in canvassing plant chats about this species (yeah, I’m a geek that way) I see that fanatics from Canada to Connecticut say they have no problems, local nursery endorses it… am willing to experiment

READ MORE ABOUT IT: herehere and here (Arnold Arboretum magazine feature on unique Asian plants grown in the Boston arboretum, including ornamental raspberry — another reason I’m sure it will do well here)

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6. Symphoricarpos x chenautlii ‘Hancock’… also known as Chenault Coralberry or Snowberry

symphoricarpos x chenaultii (chenault coralberry) | beavercreeknursery.com
symphoricarpos x chenaultii (chenault coralberry) | beavercreeknursery.com

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? native to the West coastal range but disappearing on the East Coast, pinkish flowers attract hummingbirds, white berries in fall and winter for birds, good spreader, used to restore embankments, drought-tolerant, not picky about soil, hardy in zones 4-7, likes some sun to full shade

READ MORE ABOUT IT: here and here

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7. Xanthorhiza simplicissima…  also known as Yellowroot

xanthorhiza simplicissima (yellowroot) in flower | 2binthewild.com
xanthorhiza simplicissima (yellowroot) in flower | 2binthewild.com

xanthorhiza simplicissima (yellowroot) in fall | sunfarm.com
xanthorhiza simplicissima (yellowroot) in fall | sunfarm.com

WHY PERFECT FOR THIS SPOT? native East Coast woodland shrub accustomed to stream banks, thrives in bright shade to full shade, bright green with small purple flowers in summer, fruit for birds, turns an amazingly deep purple in fall, average soil, great spreader, appears to like some moisture so protection of other plants may help

READ MORE ABOUT IT: here and here

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So Shiva talked me into bearberry. I talked her into flowering currant and creeping raspberry. I’m sure her bearberry will do well — great idea, Shiva! I think the fruit-bearers will thrive but I’ll probably give them special attention until established. Garden experiments. Ya never know.

*   *   *   *   *

How much will it take to fill 95′ x 8′?

Shiva suggests the following, although we’ll likely need to add after it’s had a year to get established…

1. Arctostaphylos uva ursi/bearberry:

6″h x 1-3’w at maturity … need 15 plants

2. Comptonia peregrina/sweetfern:

2-4’h x 4-8’w at maturity … need 75 plants

3. Cornus canadensis/bunchberry or creeping dogwood:

6-9″h x 2’w at maturity … need 50 plants

4. Ribes sanguineum Hannaman’s White/white flowering wild currant:

roughly 6’h x 6’w at maturity … need 4 plants

5. Rubus pentalobus Emerald Carpet/ornamental raspberry:

6″h x 3’w at maturity … need 9 plants

6. Symphoricarpos x chenautlii Hancock/snowberry:

2’h x 6’w at maturity … need 8 plants

7. Xanthorhiza simplicissima/yellowroot:

2-3’h x 2-3’w at maturity … need 42 plants

Oof, that’s a lot of plants. Now you can see why I need help! Thanks, Shiva, for doing the figuring.

erosion zone

More to come on our erosion zone project as springtime unpacks its bags and the real work begins.

the erosion zone: challenges

Wednesday, March 3rd, 2010

Chomping at the bit to garden. But there’s really only one spot on the property that’s ready to go: the steep slope at the bottom of the hill. I call it the erosion zone. Interested in the plan at all? Take my hand.

First, lets look at the site we have to work with…

slope in winter

Desolate. 95′ long. At least 8′ up between street-level and top of the slope. It’ll take a shizzle-load of plants to fill it. This is what it looks like after Luke and Shiva…

Shiva and Luke dismantle the incomplete rock wall

tore apart that partial stone wall, then weeded and yanked out the cantankerous shreds of juniper right around Thanksgiving. Thanks, mates!

That leaves a blank slate. Or blank slope, if you prefer. And a few issues that affect plant choice. Maybe you have some challenges like these, too?

  • Eastern-facing slope under oaks — gets full morning sun and full afternoon shade. This means I need plants that can thrive in an either/or situation. I’d also like some color to brighten the shade. Luckily it’s steep enough that the acidic oak leaves slide down and blow away. I don’t see baby oaks anywhere, so acorns must roll down.
  • Steep embankment — first, we need erosion control. Second, weed control, because this slope is practically impossible to weed. No chemicals, not ever. I want a weed-control mat that smothers weeds, allows water to soak into the soil and breaks down naturally — more on sustainable options another time. I need plants to fill in quickly to discourage weed growth — fast climbers, spreaders and creepers.
  • Far from water — except to get the plants established, this area will not be watered. This means I need fairly hardy and mostly dry-loving or drought-tolerant plants.
  • Soil is probably meh — not that great, not that bad. We should get our soil test back in the next week or two to know for sure. For this zone, I’m betting on plants that don’t care. Although we’re going to bring in a truckload of loam to fill in some of the more eroded spots, soil will only be specifically amended in the planting holes.

But wait. To add complication, I’m bringing my own issues to the party. Why not? It’s my party, right?

  • No invasive, crap or boring plants — invasive, bad. So no vinca or barberry allowed here. And boring? I promise I can do better than the standard pachysandra I see everywhere. Color and texture are important to me, even though we’ll never be able to see this zone from the house. We have a steady stream of walkers to Providence College down the block… let’s do something nice for them.
  • Must work in some native species — this helps take care of many issues above. I love exotics too, but it’s important to promote biodiversity and protect our natural heritage by relying on some North American natives. Helps conserve water and is better for the ecosystem. Besides, there are tons to choose from. More on this in another post.
  • Must be friendly to wildlife — in addition to no chemicals, I want flowers for butterflies and bees, and fruit for birds. Creating habitat in the city is definitely a must.

Based on that, I did some research and came up with an initial list of plants that would work in our erosion zone. Then I enlisted help. With so much time spent working, there just aren’t enough hours in the day for me to get this done on schedule. Shiva has tons of experience in garden design, procurement and snapping a bullwhip, so she’s my go-to gal on making the hillside happen for spring. We wrangled a little on idears… I talked her into some of mine, she talked me into some of hers. It all worked out to be something that will look awesome.

Gardeners, take note: not your typical plant choices coming up in part two.

plants in waiting

Meawhile, the rest of my plants sit patiently in pots amidst the hay bales… waiting… waiting…

dirt bag

Tuesday, March 2nd, 2010

boy digs dirt

With Spring on its way, I decided it was time to put the boys on a science project: get the soil tested. There are plenty of reasons to do this…

  • to determine soil quality so our plants will be healthier — is it acidic, neutral or alkaline?
  • to find out how much we need to amend the soil and with what

It’s unlikely that we have a lead problem here but I suppose it’s wise to find out while we can do something about it easily — before the garden goes in.

We’re sending our  dirt bag to UMass to be tested. Dirt bag, heh heh. If you’re somewhere else, your university’s local extension office will do it for you. I’ll let you know the results in the next week or two!

boy collects dirt

a rough planting plan: zones

Friday, February 26th, 2010

It’s been raining for three days straight. You know what a yard looks like after big machinery tears up all the dirt and then the deluge begins?

rainy day

It looks like a barren muckfest.

I know, I know… in another year, that muck will be surprisingly green. And the year after that, greener. Since we’re in for the long haul, I think it pays to be conscientious about problem-solving before landscaping begins. With the new retaining walls in, I can feel like I can finally do that.

One of the benefits of living here for two years is that I’ve had plenty of time to see what we’re up against — how the sun hits the landscape differently over the seasons, what parts of the yard stay completely shaded, what sorts of plants are already living well in pots when placed in the right microclimate, and so on.

When I break the yard down into different planting zones — each zone with its own set of problems and advantages — it makes it much easier to see what kind of plants make sense where. Click to biggify (I apologize ahead of time for my scribbles)…

planting zones

Thanks to my friend Shiva for helping with the visual. She’ll be helping with some actual planting soon. I’ll show you where and what next week — plus the thinking behind the plant choices. Have a fab weekend!

garden bones: the big reveal

Thursday, February 18th, 2010

Retaining wall construction wrapped about two weeks ago. Let’s get right to the final results… As always, click to biggify.

final front view

final back view

Very happy with how the walls look like they belong to the house — the mark of an architect. Irving would be thrilled. Thanks Markus Berger and Naomi Clare at Inside Out Design! Once the paint comes off the foundation, it should look even more seamless.  Doors still need to be built on the storage bays of the back wall. And when spring rolls around, plantings will soften the edges and add privacy.

The construction, chronicled

Want the nitty gritty? Read on…

The retaining wall plans got done in November. The next step was getting bids from cement contractors. And tick tick tick tick tick, suddenly it’s December. Impending winter. This is Rhode Island, after all. Is building now really a good idea?

The contractor we settled on seemed to think it was. “Adjust the concrete mix to deal with the cold,” they said confidently in their thick Rhody accents. We were dubious. But our engineer, Erik Anders Nelson, was down with that. The city inspector was, too. So fine, then.

To start, we had to take out two trees in back that happened to fall directly in line with the placement of the retaining wall…

backwall 1

Sorry trees. I know it’s not much consolation but digging would have killed you. You’ll be replaced by something exquisite, I assure you.

Digging started on December 15th. My Facebook friends weathered six weeks worth of almost daily posts on the progress. Highlights below. If you really want to get your geek on, you’re welcome to check out the full project from beginning to end, complete with angst and commentary.

Back wall:

back wall 2

back wall 3

back wall 4

back wall 6

back wall 7

back wall 8

back wall 9

back wall 10

back wall 11

back wall 12

back wall 13

back wall 14

Front wall:

front wall 1

front wall 2

front wall 4

front wall 6

front wall 7

front wall 8

front wall 9

front wall 10

front wall 11

front wall 12

front wall 13

front wall 14

front wall 15

front wall 16

front wall 18

front wall 19

Goodbye, rocky menace:

rocky menace

rocky menace gone

Four dumptruck’s worth of crappy stone, gone! Some of it…

rocky menace jr. in the neighbor's yard

ended up right across the street, in our neighbor’s yard! Glad someone can use it. We tried to give it away to any contractor who’d take it. No takers.

The ugly and unresolved:

front wall stairs

Drama with the stairs. The concrete crew couldn’t seem to make the detail consistent from step to step (5th photo down, after the jump). David had them rip it out… three times. Oy. Says he’ll be pouring the detail himself. Hallelujah.

There’s also some debate about the stucco-ish finish. David thought he’d prefer it over the patchwork look of the concrete that resulted from multiple pours. Now he hates it. I could have lived with the bare concrete. Oh well.

Consider yourself caught up. Next step: adding skin to the garden bones. Epic look at ideas tomorrow!

how green is my brain?

Monday, February 15th, 2010

Downhill. That pretty much describes the property when we moved in, cuz it’s all slope. Plenty is going to happen indoors — and soon. But right now, my concentration is on the outdoors. Welcome to How Green is My Brain Week at modremod!

I think I mentioned before how the outside was going to see the biggest change. That’s already underway… but I should catch you up before I show you where we are. Shall I point out a few things in this photo from last October?

(as usual, click to biggify and take in the full glory)

property view

To the right: unfinished wall. To the left: massive pile of stone left by previous owner. We call it the rocky menace. We also call it outta here.

rocky menace

Feel free to compare the above shot to what it looked like here in ’72 when the house was built. (first image after the jump)

As for short run of unfinished wall along the street… it was abandoned when the previous owner ran out of money (I assume, as we bought this house from the bank). Street frontage on that side runs about 95 feet. We priced getting someone to finish that wall. Ka-ching!… and multiple stone people said do not use that crappy stone.

hasta la vista wall

Therefore, c’ya wall.

And then there’s the slope. From the top of our yard, we have a clear view well above the roofline of the houses at the bottom of the slope, just across the street  — that’s over two stories’ worth of elevation change. The slope presents a number of problems, the first being how to hold back the dirt. The timbers that formed the retaining wall along the driveway…

subsiding driveway slope 1

have rotted, of course. With every rain and snowstorm, more dirt slides into the driveway.

subsiding driveway slope 2

Like our attempt to redirect the water out into the street by channeling it through the hose? Lovely.

subsiding driveway slope 3

Pretty sure our next door neighbor looks away in horror every time he drives past the spot where his brick wall touches our disaster. Hard to believe it ever looked like this. (after the jump, scroll down to the last two images)

Out back, the timber retaining wall that supports  an anemic patio area has also rotted away….

rotting backwall

Not sure which is better with a 5-year-old on the premises: the five-foot drop off the edge or the rusty 12″ nails protruding here and there from the wood. Mmmmmm, tetanus.

So now that you have the lay of the land, here’s what we hope to accomplish outside:

  1. Tame that slope. We can’t make it go away and actually like the potential of the landscape — slope creates challenges, yes, but it also creates interest. We’d like to end up with a spot or two of level (or at least almost-level) area for safe play and entertaining. Terracing will help eliminate the erosion.
  2. Give it life. I’ve had about 130 trees, shrubs and perennials trapped in pots since the move. There were more than that. Every hard freeze I lose a couple more, it seems. I hear plants screaming in my sleep. It’s time to set the garden free.
  3. Think carefully about what we plant. More on this in upcoming posts. For now, I’ll leave it at this: minimal grass, no invasive plants allowed, native plants well-represented, plenty of habitat for birds, bees and butterflies, drought-tolerate plants in hard to reach areas, all-season interest, no big-box store plants, and a chemical-free discovery zone that no kid can resist.
  4. Create an everyday escape. Because our yard has been a hard, rocky, slope-y place, we’ve pretty much left home for outdoor fun for the last two years. We’ve never had kids over to play in the yard, because it hasn’t been safe. We go to friends’ cookouts but just don’t have a place for our own. I envision our yard as a daily destination… where we can finally relax, play and entertain like we used to, get our hands in the dirt and harvest veggies and fruit for as much of the year as we can.
  5. Give a lot of thought to aesthetics. Because this yard is basically a blank slate, we have the opportunity to create something that complements the style of the house as well as our lifestyle. The end result doesn’t have to be Dwell magazine material, it just has to make sense.

fern at roger williams botanical gardens, providence ri